A+ Inspections

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The UBC standard in the U.S. Is mostly obsolete, only a few jurisdictions are still using it, because it hasn’t been updated since 1997.

The U.S. Standard for seismic is ASCE 7-02 or 7-05 or 7-98, (via, if you wish, IBC 2000, 2003, or 2006) depending on what code is relevant to the jurisdiction. In India (if you’re in India), you need to find out what that equivalent is (Perhaps Eurocode? I have no idea), but that will give you more insight into the code required analysis, including force distribution.

Barring that, the most relevant item in seismic analysis is the weight of the building elements, and their connections, start finding out what the floor weighs, is there a sprinkler system, carpet, ceiling tile, how much the structural floor weighs, wall partitions inside the building, etc. When it comes to determining adequacy, you also need to find out how floors are connected to walls, how walls are reinforced (I hope they aren’t cyclopean or unreinforced walls, because those will probably not meet current code unless you are in a very low seismic zone, I don’t have any idea how India’s seismic zones lie, I just know Bam in (Iran?) had a bad earthquake a few years ago.

Sorry I can’t be of more help.

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I’d go with Dynamic HTML (webpage design), then php & mysql this will cover some database design stuff that can be implemented within your webpages.
You will want SQL as well if your working with databases.
For building servers, Windows Server, IIS6. Skip the TCP/IP, this is networking protocols. Perl and CGI may be useful for web server programming also.

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Either increase the size of the members, increase the number of members, or reduce the load.

I see no other options.

If you are using wood, you could switch to steel, or use glu-lam wood headers or beams (but they are more expensive).

Building owners will have to suck it up, if they want their building inspected and approved for public or private occupancy.

Life is cruel, but deadly if codes are not complied with.
There is a reason why they are there.

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Owners only understand that the building can stand on its own
that the engineer who construct it is also responsible
that 99 % of the building is safe for a time that
that whenever there is an earthquake damages, insurance is justified
that when big fire will occur, investigation will focus on where the fire started.
If it is a typhoon that destroyed the building, other houses also are destroyed. . I t is just natural

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I am working at a structural office right now and good luck all those programs are around $5000 a pop and I find that engineering can only be done as a team thats the only way an efficient design can be made without any mistakes

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If you would finish the question and add the loads you might get an answer.

We need more input in the form of additional details.

You can add additional details to any question by bringing your question up.

Look at the Action Bar under your question.
There is a pencil Icon there.
Hover your cursor over it.
A drop down box will appear.
Click on the Add Additional Details Tab.
You can not change any wording on the original question, You can only add details.
You can add additional details multiple times.
I will check back later to see if I can help you better.

Question answered:
1-31-11 @ 12:06 AM
1-31-11 @ 7:31 PM

Ben

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It is important because improperly coded algorithms can crash the system or require geometric scaling resources.

Performing system analysis and using best practice methodologies help prevent common bad coding techniques.

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So sorry, I’m normally quite accommodating.
But this is 1/2 a day of well paid work for me normally. I’ll give you a design with it’s calcs. If you want one, but you’ll have to ask REAAAALLLYY nicely.
Ps. If you give me a country, I’ll even supply the appropriate wind calcs. For the local hurricanes.
Where I live it’s based on the worst in 50 years. But every country is different.

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Can it be done given the time constraints (you need it by when)?

Can it be done given the resource budget (people/equipment/money)?

Can it be done in a way that meets performance and other quality requirements(glitchy bugs, performance, resource consumption, etc)?

(I can also think of a 4th feasiblity tenet — Is the problem solveable by current (or anticipated) technology?)

We have a saying in the software industry, you can have it quickly, you can have it bug free, or you can have all of your desired features. Pick two.

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If your company has a big enough IT budget, you should contact one of the major statistical/analytical software vendors. (Or have your IT guys help you look into it.) It sounds like you need a lot more than a cheesy Excel spreadsheet and Access ain’t going to cut it any more than Excel.

Http://www.sas.com

http://www.spss.com

etc.

These guys have products that answer exactly what your questions are driving at. I have used the SAS products and I think they’re the best.

If you have no budget at all, you still need something better than Microsoft toy products, so look into the freeware/open source stuff — I know about QuantLib but I suspect there are others: http://quantlib.org/

What did they use at school where you learned about modelling? Or have you been learning on your own?

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If you are coming to the table with the 3.5% down payment, you simply deduct this amount from the purchase price, which is $115,000, therefore your net loan amount would be $110,975.

You would not be required to pay the commission of the real estate agent as HUD has a agreement that the real estate agent would be paid by them for a certain percentage or a flat fee, normally HUD pays a certain percentage. Therefore you would not be required to pay the $6,900.

Closing cost could be inserted in your purchase contract and see if HUD will pay all or a portion of this.

Closing cost consist of securing a title report, appraiser cost, escrow fees, points and fees you have to pay your mortgage company for doing your mortgage loan. These fees and cost differ in how much a house would cost.

Any closing cost would be paid by you at the closing out of your pocket and would not have anything to do with your mortgage loan. So when closing comes around be prepared to sign a check for the amount of closing unless you can get HUD to pay all or some per your sales contract.

If you are currently working with a bank or mortgage company they should have given you a Good Faith Estimate (GFE) by now indicating the approximate cost of your closing and how much you should contemplate bringing to the closing table.

If anything change during the coarse of your purchase such as interest rate or another cost is added you should be sent another GFE indicating this change.

The bank, mortgage company or your real estate agent should be able to tell you if you are qualified for the $100 down payment though I am sure this is just a come on and read something like “as low as $100 down.”

Any lender that is qualified to do FHA mortgage loans will do just fine, you will find those that can do FHA mortgage loans. Most FHA mortgage loans require 3.5% down as you have stated.

Some HUD properties are sold as is without warranty. This will be a disclosure given to your by the real estate agent you are working with. If this is the case anything found by your inspector will be things that you would have to repair yourself after the purchase.

There are some that will give you an allowance for certain obvious things that need repair such as carpet, missing commodes and wash basins. Again these items would be listed along with the amount that HUD will pay for the repairs.

If there are things that need repairing you might see if you are qualified for the FHA 203-b mortgage loan. This mortgage loan will in addition to the purchase amount also include the repair amount. So if your loan amount is $115,000 minus the down payment then the repair cost would be added to this amount. So if the repairs came to $8,000 then this amount would be added to your loan amount.

This amount might be escrow account set up for the pay out of the funds for repair, meaning that when the repairs are made and an appraiser has verified that they are completed the escrow would release the funds for the completed work.

At the closing you would be given your HUD-1 final escrow closing cost.

I hope this has been of some benefit to you, good luck.

“FIGHT ON”

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Bluntly – as others have noted, an ‘inspection report’ not signed by a licensed/registered engineer or architect is often worse than useless. That being written:

As you have not given the size of your house, its construction or location it is impossible to determine whether 5 tons or 3.5 tons is adequate or not, whether there are other issues such as poor maintenance, failing parts, age, poor ductwork design, poor balancing or any of half-a-dozen other causes for discomfort having nothing to do with the unit size.

Further, AC units much as heating units run at their most efficient when they are running flat-out. And as AC is as much a matter of dehumification as it is of refrigeration an oversized unit will in reality be worse than an undersized unit as it will make you feel clammy before it makes you feel comfortable.

In rank order:

a) Have the unit serviced. Clean the both the condensing and evaporation coils, clean out the condensate pan, replace the filter and make sure that the refrigerant levels are correct.
B) Balance the system – that is adjust any duct dampers you may have to direct the air to where you want it. There is no use in cooling an empty room or a closed off room, or an entire floor when all you want is one room cool. This may be a matter of daytime settings and night-time settings.
C) Expect the unit to run most of the time if it is very hot out. This is _NOT_ a bad thing inasmuch as the seasonal efficiency of the unit (SEER) determines its cost to operate and to cool to a given temperature. A larger unit of two with the same SEER may get to a temperature faster but it used just as much energy to get there as the smaller one did – taking longer.

Consider that if the unit is more than about 5 years old the changes in technology even over that short a time may make it more cost-effective to simply replace it with a larger unit – assuming your ductwork and plenum are adequate.

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They very well could be held liable. Normally I’d say no because you failed to get renters insurance, however, they neglected to tell you the fireplace was not in working condition..
Consult an attorney, you have a valid claim.

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Yes ‘Structure’ refers to the building.
Some ‘settling’ is common over time in an older wood frame structure.
It’s the amount and rate of the settling that should be evaluated.
If there’s been a serious termite problem a structural evaluation,
(not just a termite report), might be in order.

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Hey!! A magical inspector, he can tell there is activity without actually seeing live termites? It probably should of been reported as previous activity found, no activity seen, no evidence of treatment ever being done (if there was none). Hopefully he also didn’t hit you up with a “discounted price” for treatment since he now already knows the property. The only product I would use to treat the place, especially if there are non accessible areas, would be with Termidor. It is pretty much idiot proof and unlike the other liquid products, because of the nature of termites, you can still fully protect the home even if there are areas that did not get treated and unlike baits that are hit and miss to begin with, the labor cost for the future services will be a fraction of monitoring the baits stations. I have yet to have a call back on any home I have treated with it.

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This would be dictated by your contract with the buyer. If their offer was contingent on a clean inspection and the have not yet passed the point of no return, then they can back out at any time before that contingency date.

Read your contract. It should CLEARLY state until what date they can back out based on contingencies.

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You can use pictures as proof. Sadly you are not likely to have a picture of your shower door. But the door with the hole is a possibility, look through your family pictures.

While she has to prove damages exists, you have to prove it is not your damage if this goes to court.

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Stucco board is a pre-textured siding product that is mechanically fastened to the house in sheets. EIFS or synthetic stucco is applied like traditional stucco in layers on the outside of the home.

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I bought my present home eight months ago. It had a very recent inspection. The inspector told me that he would not talk to me about the inspection because it was not mine. There were questions I wanted answered so I hired another inspection done. I know it is a lot of money but so is the purchase price.

The two inspectors disagreed on several small items- nothing big. I bought the house with the seller giving me some money to buy a new furnace. I just really want to talk with the inspector so I wouldn’t depend on the old report.

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Is this a homework question or something?

If the screens are broken, fix them. If the taps are leaking, fix them. If the tenants have good reason to be concerned about the lack of security, then do something to fix that, too.

This isn’t exactly rocket science here.

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The lender-owner will never do repairs once it’s listed, which is just one reason (of many) that they list it “as is.” They’re losing enough money on the property as it is, let alone pumping additional funds into it for the sake of a sale. They would rather keep reducing it than to invest more capital. Sometimes, REO management companies repair certain homes, but only if it proves to be a profitable decision – but that would only happen PRIOR to the listing of the property.

FHA loans do not allow sellers to credit escrows at closing anymore. And no, they don’t have to disclose jack squat to anybody; REOs don’t follow the same rules and laws as typical home sellers. Since they didn’t live in it, they more than likely aren’t required by law to disclose anything to buyers. They have you sign documents that explain their position that they don’t know and it’s your problem if there’s mold, radon, lead based paint, etc.

If you need an FHA loan, you may possibly be allowed to go 203k (type of FHA loan), which allows negligible condition homes to pass FHA and to finance escrows for repairs up to $25,000 that could make the property habitable according to HUD standards. It’s the only FHA product that isn’t too strict on property condition. Otherwise, you will have to go conventional. Good luck!

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I would give them a call
They usually review in detail on the phone and u can clarify
U can call till late at night when there is less traffic

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There are a few methods to figuring out what you should ask for rent.

1) Ask around. Knock on doors of other rentals in the area. There is nothing wrong with asking a renter what they pay for their property, and they will usually share the information. This is a very informative method, since the unit is one that is actually being rented. You can also call about other rentals that are listed and find out about rates being asked for comparable units. This can be a little misleading, since the price isn’t necessarily one that people are willing to pay, but it is much easier than hoofing around door to door.

2) Call an appraiser in your area (If you don’t know one, call a real estate agent or mortgage broker/lender that you trust, and they should have a name). You will have to pay him for it, but the appraiser will do a rent schedule for you. If the property is one that you recently purchased or refinanced, you, or your loan officer, probably already have a copy of this document. Most lenders require it for investment properties. The rent schedule is basically an appraisal of rents in the area, and it is a professional statement of what the property could be rented for. This is another education tool, but I have found that creative advertising, unique features, and different types of leases usually lead to a rent that is different (often higher).

3) Trial and error. With every property this is going to be the tool that gets you to the “MAX RENT”. If you rented a place within a couple days of listing it, then you might want to raise you price. However, when you raise your price you might find a unit sitting a little too long. My experience has been that I’ve had to own a property for about two lease cycles in order to have an idea of whether my rent was accurate or not.

Note: Charging a higher rent can be a little nerve racking when trying to find a renter. You will always be the last to be looked at. You will notice other places filling up around you, and it is very difficult to tell how long you are going to have to wait. Take time to think about a break even point – how much your time is worth and how much of it you want to spend renting the place vs. How much extra money you will make from a higher rent. Renters tend to be very “shoppers” and very concerned about even a few extra dollars.

Scenario:
If you know you can rent a unit for $1500/month but decide to try for $1600/month don’t let yourself wait longer than one month. If you miss one month you lose one month’s rent (guaranteed $1500) in an effort to wait for someone who will pay you an extra $1200 over the year.

Good luck!

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A tenants imagined “right to quiet” should not interfere with another tenant’s enjoyment of their own home for which they pay rent. Some tenants appear very arrogant, somehow imagining that there must be no noise whatsoever from adjoining apartments

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Talk to your attorney about Florida law regarding home inspections when utilities are not turned on. If you don’t have an attorney, call a couple of well-regarded home inspections to ask what they do in this case. The bank that owns the property, or has the mortgage may have to give permission for the expense of having them turned on, but all these months of having the house vacant may have caused severe mold damage.
Many years ago I almost bought a house that was in foreclosure. When the water was turned on the pipes leaked in practically every room. The former owners had stolen the furnace, so the bank was going to pay for a new one, but there were problems with the heating too. Snakes were found under the house in a crawl space, so that was the last straw. I backed out of the contract.

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Don’t take occupation until it is cleared. Look at your sale agreement, see if there are any clauses that would force the sellers to clear their refuse. That would make your case stronger.

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There are laws in each state of Australia, but they are pretty much the same. In QLD the Landlord must give 7 Days Notice in writing of an “Inspection”. Then there are not to be more than 4 Inspections in any 12 Month Period. What State are you in? Check with your Local Tenancy Tribunal for the laws in your state.

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Hi Soul,
Sorry but dont expect too much from your Doctors. Unfortunately most Docs do not have any experience in treating toxic mold exposure and in my experience if they dont have experience its almost a waist of time and money talking to them. But please do try and find a doctor. I will provide a link so that you can search for Doctors with experience in this field below. Or you can also call BEFORE you arrive and shop for a Doctor so to speak. Are you starting to get headaches yet?? Hope not.
A word on toxic mold; Toxic mold grows in no sunlight conditions with a water source. For instance behind a wall with a leaking pipe, humid basements or crawlspaces etc. Toxic mold is very very very dangerous. And if ther is toxic mold in your home please get out while your still alive. God bless

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It’s possible to have mold any where there is moisture, regardless of the houses age. I would advise you to get allergin removing air filtures for you a/c and heating units to clean as much as possible from the air you breathe. A dehumidifier on humid days may help too. They sell a powder in a self contained bucket at Home Depot the absorbs excess moisture . Perhaps you could place these in the areas( out of the way) where you smell it the strongest in your home.

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Virtually everyone has one type or another of mold somewhere in their home. Although not all types are toxic, it is sometimes difficult to distinguish types without lab testing. Thus it is imperative to treat and remove all molds as if they’re potentially harmful.

Areas and substances where black mold can be found include water soaked wood, ceiling tiles, wall paneling, cardboard, even items made of cotton. Black mold can grow on drywall and insulation and can infest areas in the floors, walls and ceilings.

When you are contemplating clean up of black mold, you need to verify the extent of the problem. Many of the infested areas will be relatively small and be a result of small leaks or plumbing problems. After discovering the root of the problem and rectifying it, you can disinfect the area with bleach. A mixture of one cup bleach to a gallon of water is sufficient to disinfect the area. Apparently adding a touch of dish soap to the mixture will also aid in dissolving accumulated grease and dirt in the area.

You are to apply the bleach mixture to the moldy area and leave it to saturate the area for approximately fifteen minutes. After this you must take care to thoroughly dry the cleaned area.

Spores from dried mold are very dangerous and should be cleaned with caution. You should never scrape or scratch at dried mold as the spores would then be released into the air and pose an inhalation risk. A respiratory mask and eye protection are necessary and adequate clothing to prevent skin contact is recommended.

According to the CDC, there are some preventative measures you can personally take to battle black mold. The following are some of their suggestions; keep the humidity of the house down, make sure there is adequate ventilation inside the home(especially in the kitchen and bathroom), add mold inhibitors to new paint before painting, use mold killing products to clean and do not use carpet in the bathroom.
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You will need to throw away the padding just to make sure there isn’t any black mold (its the spores that’s the nasty stuff)

You would be best off to look in the yellow book under mold, and you should be able to find a professional close to you. But be aware..they are not cheap

If money is on the tight side go to http://moldtestkit.com/ and you can get your own mold kit. I have no idea how good that kit is.

If I was you. I would look at the damaged area, if you don’t see any black mold then you should be fine. But I would go ahead and bleach the area just to be safe. And I would call an home inspector because sounds like the water got into the beams as well, if that is the case that will be to be fixed as well.

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I would have the A.C. Set so you always have some air circulating through the system this way the moisture won’t form or build and create a friendly environment for the mold. Without air movement it would be natural for the condensation to form with the big temperature variance hot and cold in your region of the country. Good luck

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Call our office to schedule a mold inspection.

Phone:  1-888-239-6969

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Sorry to tell you this, but you are going to have to rip out the floor and replace that subflooring. Since you say you will be in the house for about 4 to 5 years, its only going to get worse. Even if you only live there for 2 years. You’re going to have to replace it. Unfortunately since it the wood is rotted, there are no ways of fixing it. It just has to be replaced.

Also, if you try to sell the place knowing that the rot was there and their inspector does find it, you wont pass inspection, you’ll be out a ton of dough, and you still wont sell the house. If I was you, replace the subflooring, if need be take your time doing it, so its not such a financial burden.

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You can try suing him, but expect a counter suit.

Your allergies give you no special rights. A large portion of the population has allergies to mold, grasses, etc. They take meds, they do not move.

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The old homeowners are only liable if you can prove that they knew about a pre-existing condition. You would probably need to find out if they ever had a mold inspection done and what the report says, otherwise it is your word versus their word.

Typically home inspectors are not mold inspectors and it is your responsibility to hire a mold inspector for this type of inspection.  As for the inspector, check the contract you signed with him – there is probably a hold-harmless clause that absolves the inspector of any harm done by oversight. If this is the case, at best, you could get the fee you paid the inspector back.

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You can not paint the harmful varieties of mold. They live on raw wood and are puffy, not flat. It sounds like mildew spots, I would not worry about it.

You can pay to have it tested if you want, it has to test as one of the 2 harmful strains to get you out of your lease.

I do not live very far from you and can tell you that harmful mold has NEVER been found around here. It does not mean it never will, just that it never has.

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I am glad you plan to also have the house inspected by a professional. For your own home inspection I recommend:

-Turning on and off all light switches
-Turn on and off all faucets
-Look for signs of water damage on the ceilings which indicate a leaky roof
-Ask if the basement or roof leaks
-Look for large cracks around the foundation and also on the walls inside the house
-Make sure rain water leads away from the house
-Check the condition of the gutters and shingles. Look for missing shingles.

I didn’t even mention mold but that should be obvious. In my experience, water can really do a lot of damage to a house.

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The best inspectors out there will have a IAC2 or RESNET certification.

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All kinds of businesses leave their cards with the real estate broker. He leaves the cards out for his agents to use. Sometimes those businesses will give $25 to $100 to the realtor who uses them (depending on what the cost of their service is, it’s a percentage anyway) so that’s why the real estate agent suggested them to you. They all do the same thing, have to abide by the same rules and state laws. There are things regarding led paint, radon, sink holes, termites and carpenter ants, main structure strength, mold, and leaks that need to be looked for. FHA does the inspection for poor wiring, code violations, poor sewage and pipes, and things like rugs hiding problems or wires under rugs or live wires (fire hazards), gas leaks and such. Some things have to be listed on a document with the real estate agent that those things have been checked, that there’s no problem and that you agree that there’s no problem (then you sign in agreement). So ask that inspector anything you like or anything that concerns you.

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It is possible that both states regulate this field; AZ [where i am, does]

call a real estate broker to see if your state regulates such
professionals.

Http://www.homeinspectioninstitute.com/state_regulations.php?statecode=’AR’

http://www.nahi.org/ok-oklahoma-home-inspector.asp

ASHI : Homebuyers/Sellers : State Regulations
Download ASHI’s official position on the regulation of the home inspection profession.
Existing State Home Inspector Regulatory Legislation

Alabama Licensure (Act 2002-517 enacted in 2002) Requires individuals performing home inspections to become licensed by the Alabama Building Commission. The Alabama Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics (see Home Inspectors Rules and Applications) is adopted from the ASHI Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics. The Alabama Building Commission gratefully acknowledges ASHI’s consent. The Building Commission adopted the National Home Inspection Examination to assess minimum competence. The bill also outlines educational and experiential requirements to become licensed, sets license fees and insurance requirements, and defines penalties under which licensure may be suspended or revoked. This law replaces Act 96-574.

For more information or a copy of the statute contact the Alabama Building Commission, (334) 242-4082, (334) 242-4182 fax, e-mail buildcom@bc.state.al.us.

Alaska Licensure (Chapter 134 SLA enacted in 2003). In Alaska, home inspectors and associate home inspectors will be issued a certificate of registration by the Department of Community and Economic Development. To be a registered home inspector, an individual must: 1) pass the National Home Inspector Examination, 2) meet the educational and experience requirements as determined by the Department, 3) submit a complete application for registration within one year of passing the exam, 4) not have been convicted of specific crimes in the past seven years of the date of the application, 5) not have had the authority to perform home inspections revoked in the state or another jurisdiction, 6) not be the subject of an unresolved criminal complaint or unresolved disciplinary action in the state and 7) pay the appropriate fees. For the renewal of certificates, the Department will require at least eight hours of continuing competency activity in each licensing period. The Department will set the registration fees for home inspectors and associate home inspectors and determine the disciplinary actions and penalties for violating the terms of the certificate of registration. The law also sets home inspection requirements for residential loans purchased or approved by the Alaska Housing Finance Corporation. The law requires that a written report fulfilling certain requirements be submitted to the person requesting the inspection upon completion of an inspection that will remain valid for 180 days after the inspection and allows for civil action to be taken against home inspectors for one year after performing the inspection. The law requires the home inspector to carry insurance and a bond of $5,000. The law went into effect in 2003 and all home inspectors are required to have a license by July 1, 2004.

For more information contact the home inspector licensing examiner at the The Department of Commerce, Community, and Economic Development at (907) 465-5470 phone, (907) 465-2974 fax or e-mail brenda_Donohue@commerce.state.ak.us .

Arizona Certification (Title 32, Chapter 1 enacted in 2002). The Arizona State Board of Technical Registration (BTR) certifies and regulates the practice of home inspectors. The law requires 80 hours of education, successful completion of the National Home Inspector Examination, and evidence of successfully completed home inspections. In addition, the law requires that certified home inspectors have one of the following financial assurances: 1) Errors and Omissions Insurance in the amount of $200,000 in the aggregate and $100,000 per occurrence, 2) a $25,000 bond or proof of assets in that amount, or 3) an alternate financial assurance mechanism approved by the BTR with a value of at least $25,000. The law states that loss of or failure to obtain financial assurance is grounds for revocation of certification.

For more specific information regarding certification requirements, please go to the BTR website and, under Regulations on the Table of Contents panel, click on “Applicable Statutes” (see A.R.S.§ 32-122.02 or “Applicable Rules” (see A.A.C. R4-30-247).

For further information, contact Manual Maltos, Home Inspector Certification Program administrator.

Arkansas Registration (Act 1328 of 2003) repealed and replaced (Act 791 of 1997). Unde r the “Arkansas Home Inspector Registration Act,” all home inspectors in the state must register with the Sec retary of State. Applicants must pass the National Home Inspector Examination. In addition, home inspectors must conduct all inspections in adherence to the Standards of

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Get the home inspection for the general construction. Make sure that you hire them. That way, they have your interests in mind (not the builder’s).

Also have the specialty areas (plumbing, electrical, and HVAC) inspected by professionals in this area (not the ones who are doing the work).

The local city/county may have their own required inspections. The problem with that is they are only looking to see if the building meets code requirements. Remember, ‘code’ is just a set of MINIMUM standards. There is often a HUGE difference between “meeting code” and “doing a good job”.

Make sure that anyone you hire to inspect is looking at the quality of the work and the quality of the materials being used.

I am a service electrician. I see all of the cheap crap that other electricians throw into these homes because the builder is squeezing every last penny of profit out of them. They have to cut every corner possible to stay in business. The builder won’t care. His family is never going to live there. Don’t get me wrong, the devices, material, and workmanship will probably ‘meet code’ and be deemed as ‘safe’. It just won’t be a good job.

Sorry if I have ‘ranted’ a little. I do love my job. But, the one part that I really hate is when I have to explain to a customer that someone else screwed them.